Full coverage and blending are two different services with different maintenance needs. The consultation decides which path you take based on how much grey there is, where it sits, and how often the client wants to come back. Getting this choice right ensures your client is happy with the upkeep and your services are priced for the work.

Coverage and blending

Grey coverage is the traditional route. It uses permanent colour to fully disguise the grey, creating an even and polished result that looks solid. It's the right choice for someone who wants no silver showing at all. Grey blending is different. It works with the client's natural grey rather than masking it entirely, adding dimension and reducing the contrast between the coloured hair and the regrowth.

While coverage is opaque and solid, blending is translucent and soft. It suits clients who want a more natural finish or those who are gradually moving towards being fully grey. This approach allows the hair to transition over time without the shock of a solid colour.

The consultation

The consultation is where you decide which path to take. You need to look at how much grey is present and where it sits. Is it evenly through the hair, or is it concentrated at the hairline or the crown? These patterns dictate the technique you'll use. Start by asking if they want complete concealment or a finish that makes the regrowth less obvious.

Maintenance is the deal-breaker here. A client who can't commit to a salon visit every four to six weeks is a poor candidate for full coverage. A good consultation covers these bases so there are no surprises when the roots appear.

Full coverage with permanent colour

For full coverage, permanent colour is the standard. Wella's Koleston Perfect range offers up to 100% grey coverage, but you have to mix it correctly. To get the right depth for coverage, use 6% developer in a 1:1 ratio and include a natural shade from the Pure Naturals range. Other brands have their own rules and the manufacturer's instructions apply:

  • For 30 to 50% grey. Add one third of a natural shade to your mix.
  • For 50 to 100% grey. Add one half of a natural shade.

Resistant grey needs even more care. You'll need plenty of pigment and should apply the colour in smaller sections to ensure the hair is fully saturated. Avoid choosing a shade that's too dark; while it covers well, the contrast against white roots makes the regrowth line look harsher.

Root development is 30 to 40 minutes without heat, and you should always start where the percentage of grey is highest.

Blending with demi-permanent colour

Demi-permanent colour is used for blending. Wella Color Touch blends grey into the base shade rather than blocking it out. Combined with Color Touch Plus, it provides up to 70% grey coverage. This is ideal for a softer look because the colour lasts around 28 washes and fades without a hard demarcation line. The regrowth is far more forgiving for the client.

You can apply it to the roots, all over, or in highlights or lowlights to help the grey blend in. L'Oréal Professionnel's Dia Color is also positioned for blending up to 70% grey.

Highlights, lowlights and babylights

Blending relies on balayage, highlights, or lowlights matched to the natural base. Foils suit grey that is evenly distributed through the hair. If it's clustered at the hairline, babylights can soften the contrast and brighten the face.

A silver shampoo every couple of weeks keeps highlights bright and takes out warmth. Techniques like root melts also help blend the regrowth between colour appointments.

The regrowth line and return frequency

Hair grows about 1 to 1.3 cm a month. The regrowth line shows within a few weeks on a full-coverage client. To keep it polished, these clients need a touch-up every 4 to 6 weeks. Wella's own rule of thumb is every 6 to 8 weeks, depending on how much grey there is and how fast the hair grows.

Blending clients have more freedom. Because the finish is translucent, the regrowth is less noticeable and doesn't create a solid line. These appointments can be spaced 8 to 12 weeks apart. It's a lower maintenance schedule that appeals to busy clients, but it means fewer visits to the salon and fewer opportunities for retail sales over the course of a year.

The skin test

Wella's instructions say to perform an allergy test 48 hours before any colour service, as the NHBF notes a reaction can take up to 48 hours to develop. This applies to both permanent and demi-permanent colours alike. You must record the skin test by noting whether a test was needed, the date of the test, the result, and whether the service can go ahead.

Insurers expect the service to follow the manufacturer's instructions. Luminate records each test against the client and can warn, or block the booking, when there is no valid test on file. New clients who book a colour service online can be routed to a short skin test appointment first.

Pricing and booking both services

The difference in return frequency means you must price these services correctly. A coverage client paying £55 for a root colour every 5 weeks comes in about 10 times a year, which comes to £550. A blending client paying £85 every 10 weeks comes in about 5 times a year, which comes to £425. The blending visit is longer, so price it for the time and product it takes.

Use processing gaps to your advantage. Luminate lets you set a processing time for colour, freeing the stylist to see another client while the shade develops. You can also save colour notes on the client profile so the next stylist knows exactly what was used. Look at your service menu today and adjust your pricing to reflect the technical work involved.